More Maui winter swells and my best stand up wave ever
Today it it was supposed to be big. I checked out Hookipa, Kuau, Baby beach, but it all looked very big and not possible to get out with the stand up board. So I went to Uppers in Kanaha instead. And so did a few other. Normally I am pretty much by myself there but today about 15-20 guys ( no , no girls yet) showed up. Here is a little movie of this morning. I had a 2 hours session, Fun, but it didn't turn out as I hoped for.
So I set out again in the afternoon and met Mike Eskimo and a french guy Bruno, in Noriagas who had the same idea. Kuau looked just do-able. With a small channel which didn't close out most of the time. We launched at the little beach and were sucked through the channel with a lot of speed. Out there the waves looked massive. Only a few miles further down the coast, Jaws was going off. It looked tricky, the were so big that it was hard to get a enough speed to get on them or you had to go deep, and risk to get a big set on your head, which almost happened twice. So I didn't wait around much, saw a nice set coming and went for it. Got it and had my biggest wave ever. After I rode it in, it actually close on me in the end. I saw how first Bruno got caught by a massive set and then Mike Eskimo. Both of them broke their leach and had a long swim in while I gathered the boards. Just one ride but it made my day, my week.
Here are a few pics from this week on a small dayin front of Mama's fish house.
